Part II - NARS Cosmetics, a match made in heaven

This entry is a follow-up to a previous post highlighting Estee Lauder, the first cosmetic company I worked for. Feel free to check it out here.


After 6 years of working for Estee Lauder and seeing my hours slowly dwindle due to the economy, I felt it was time to move on to another brand. I was wanting to work for a smaller company and NARS is a company I have always admired. Upon receiving a job offer from them, I jumped at the opportunity to work for this great company.

If ever there was a makeup match made for me, it would be NARS. I absolutely love everything about this line! At first I was skeptical of some of the simplicity in the line - No foundation brushes?? Only two formulas of foundation and one concealer??? You don't contour the eyes?? Whaaaa...? It went against everything I was ever taught. However, after delving into the line and forcing myself to look at makeup from a different perspective, I was amazed at how many new opportunities were opened up to me.

Once I learned more of the background of the line, I was really hooked. The company was started by makeup master Francois Nars who initially launched 12 shades of lipstick that were sold exclusively at Barney's. From there, it gradually attained cult status as they added iconic products such as Orgasm blush, Rated R eyeshadow, and the amazing Body Glow, a divine Tahitian coconut oil.

Francois began doing makeup at an early age and quickly rocketed to success upon moving to New York from his native France. In New York he gained notoriety after doing makeup for 18 CONSECUTIVE covers of Vogue. He propelled Madonna into her era as the material girl by transforming her look and helped launch the careers of then unknown models such as Naomi Campbell (featured in a few early NARS ad campaigns) and Kate Moss.

The philosophy behind NARS is simple - it's just makeup, have fun with it, wear what makes you feel beautiful. One of the fun things about the line is that literally every item has personal significance to Francois and each color tells a story. Francois personally names all of the products and the titles can be grouped into a few basic categories:
Classic Movie References such as Shanghai Express, Pillow Talk, and Funny Face
Moods, Feelings, or Emotions such as Orgasm, Desire, and Zen
Iconic Women such as Marlene Dietrich, Blondie, and Edie Sedgwick
Exotic Locales throughout the world such as Mediteranee, Kuala Lumpur, and South Pacific

A few other fun facts about the line:
-The compacts have a unique velvety feel to them so that the experience of applying and wearing the product is full sensory.
-The iconic white NARS logo on black background pays homage to Francois' childhood days when he would sketch on a chalkboard.
-The tester unit you see in stores is evocative of a sushi platter because the initial meetings between Francois and Fabian Baron (the artistic mastermind behind the branding of the product) took place at a sushi restaurant.

These days, Francois is a bit reclusive, spending half his time in the South Pacific and the other half in New York. Although he sold the company to Shiseido over 10 years ago, he still retains creative control and continues to photograph each and every ad campaign for the company.

The following are my favorite, must have products from NARS.

Skin

1. Body Glow II is a beautiful coconut oil body treatment that has been processed in a French Polynesian tradition. It has a wonderful fragrance due to the Monoi de Tahiti oil as well as the rare Tahitian Tiare flower that has macerated in the oil.

2. Essential Vitamin Serum is a lightweight serum that is applied over your moisturizer each morning and evening. The potent blend of vitamins brightens, protects, and firms the skin.

3. Mud Mask is made of seaweed, Masada Mud, natural botanicals, and minerals designed to offer deep purifying and brightening of the skin. I like to use it as a spot treatment on blemishes too. The best thing about this mask is that it is not overly drying and can be used by virtually anyone.

4. Aqua Gel Hydrator is a lightweight gel cream made up of 87% water. Massage a generous amount into your skin at night, alone or on top of your regular moisturizer, and let it go to work the entire night as you sleep. Your skin will be freshly plumped and re-energized when you wake up in the morning.

Cheeks

1. Maldives Multiple Stick is a gorgeous pink champagne. I like this color because it is flattering on virtually every skintone. My favorite way to use this color is to stripe the product on the forehead, cheekbones, nose, jawline, and chin and then carefully blend the foundation into the cream. The result is the most beautiful, luminous skin you can possibly imagine.

2. Torrid Blush is a lovely coral shade with a gold shimmer. I say, "Move over, Orgasm! There's a new blush in town." This shade is just as flattering as Orgasm but it has more pigment and less frost for those of us who like a more natural finish to our blush.

3. Exhibit A is hands down my favorite NARS blush of all time. When applied sheerly, it lends such a cheery pop of color to the skin. This shade has also been voted the best color for dark skin. I recommend applying it with the Yachiyo brush which I will outline under my favorite brushes.

4. New Order is a recent addition to the line but it has quickly become one of my favorites. It is a beautiful blend of a pearly lilac and gold powder with a fine gold sparkle. I like to apply it on the cheekbones for a whimsical touch of fairy dust.

5. Doucer is a gorgeous sandy pink blush. I often use it as a contour shade or to deepen some of the lighter shades of blush such as Deep Throat.

Lips

1. Dragon Girl Velvet Matte Lip Pencil is one of the brightest reds I have ever seen. I love this pencil because it is such a pigmented red yet it won't bleed like a traditional red lipstick. Rumor has it that this shade is Gwen Stefani's preferred red.

2. The Dolce Vita line of products is right behind Orgasm in popularity. There is currently a lipstick, gloss, Velvet Matte Pencil, and a blush. This shade is routinely voted as being the most universally flattering shade of lipstick. I personally prefer the pencil version myself as it has a certain softness that isn't as present in the lipstick or gloss. This product is great on it's own or as a base to add natural warmth to any other lip colors.

3. Easy Lover lipgloss is a beautiful sheer fuchsia giving the right amount of brightness without being overdone.

4. Greek Holiday is an amazing peach gloss that shimmers and shines like you wouldn't believe. I like to mix it with deeper glosses to give them a softer finish.

5. Moon Fleet is similar to Greek Holiday but with a more glittery finish. All the little flecks of gold and platinum feel galactically fantastic and this seemingly simple lipgloss is a definite show stopper!

6. Striptease is quite possible the greatest nude gloss of all time. While most nude glosses are sheer, Striptease is opaque and milky and everything a nude lip should be.

7. Barbarella is a really flattering peach lipstick that screams 1960's bombshell. Tres Sexy!

8. Roman Holiday is the perfect Barbie pink - not too bright and not too Grandma rosy, just the right amount of bubble gum.

Eyes

1. Rue Bonaparte is one of the new Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliners. A lot of people use a white pencil to brighten the rim of the eyes but white isn't always flattering. I prefer the fleshy shade of this pencil as it will cover red better and this long wearing formula will stand the test of time.

2. Kitty Eyeliner is an amazing shade of turquoise eyeliner. It's so fun to use on it's own, to brighten a smoky eye, or, for a truly dramatic look, with Mediteranee eyeshadow duo, also outlined in this section.

3. Lili Marlene cream eyeshadow is the perfect base for a smokey eye. It will make your powder shadows last for hours as well as give them a beautiful smokey depth.

4. Portobello eyeshadow duo may look unassuming but it is the perfect set of soft neutrals. Not too warm and not too cool, I love these for a sophisticated natural look or for a perfect blend when transitioning from one color to the next.

5. Jolie Poupee is hands down the greatest set of purple shadows of all time. My favorite is the shimmering, electric purple but the dusty orchid is very complimentary and shouldn't be overlooked. As with all NARS eyeshadows, try applying these with a damp brush for more intensity.

6. Key Largo is a duo I go back to time and time again. The soft peach is perfect for highlighting a darker skin or to give evenness to a mature eyelid. The bronze is simple and sexy either on it's own or with darker browns and coppers for a burnished look.

7. Alhambra is a perfect shimmering pair of gold and champagne. I use these all the time to add pops of light to the inner eye, tear duct, center of the eyelid, and the arch of the brow.

8. Rated R is probably the most iconic shade of eyeshadow made by NARS. Often imitated, this is the original and the best. Believe me, I've tried the knockoffs that other companies have produced and they fall short. While these shades aren't necessarily meant to be worn together, rock on if you want to take it there! This duo constantly reminds me that makeup should be fun and shouldn't be taken so seriously all the time.

9. Mediteranee is a stunning duo of burnt orange and gold. These colors are beautiful when applied sheerly but I love to apply them in a smoldering, vibrant manner. They are even more amazing on blue eyes!

Brushes

1. Eye Shader Brush is made from pure sable and is my go to brush for depositing lots of color on the eyes. It is one of the more expensive brushes that I own but it is so worth the price.

2. Angular Eye Shader can be used to define the crease but I like it best for sweeping color along the lash line. It is a must have for a well blended smokey eye.

3. Large Dome Eye Brush is a wonderful brush for blending. You can use it all over for a sheer layer of color or to create softness in a more dramatic look.

4. Botan Brush is a part of the Kabuki line of brushes that NARS has to offer. This brush made me fall in love with powder foundations. It is very large and seems awkward at first but once you see how comfortably it fits in your hand and how well it blends, you will be hooked! It's also great for bronzing large areas such as the chest and arms.

5. Ita Kabuki Brush is a small, flat brush perfect for apply and blending powders and blushes as well as contouring the cheeks. It can also be used to blend eye colors. The entire line of Kabuki brushes are exquisitely hand made in Japan in traditional Geisha methods. You won't find anything else like them on the market!

6. Yachiyo Kabuki Brush is a domed brush ideal for highlighting, contouring, and blending. The handle is flexible and wrapped in black wisteria. Because of this flexibility, it is great for applying some of the more dramatic blush shades such as Exhibit A. Simply hold the very end of the brush handle between your thumb and forefinger and tap the brush against the skin allowing the brush to bounce back. The movement should be all in the wrist as well as the kinetic motion of the brush. You'll know you have mastered this technique when the brush is bouncing rapidly against the skin.

To finish off, I leave you with some of my favorite NARS campaigns as well as the wisest words about makeup I have ever heard.
"Don't be so serious. It's only makeup"
Francois Nars


















NARS throughout the years

Amy Gillespie, makeup artist, NARS, cosmetics, beauty, fashion, product recommendations

Makeup Forever Aqua Liner Review

It seems like everywhere I look these days, I see gorgeous winged liner. Even better, I'm seeing it in a wide array of rainbow hued shades! You have no idea how happy this makes a color loving girl like me, sigh...




Upon the release of Makeup Forever's new Aqua Liners, I was sure I had found a match made in heaven. I marched down to Sephora to test out the colors - gold and fuschia and emerald, oh my! I noticed that the color was just as vivid as claimed and the colors came in a variety of finishes - some shimmer and sparkle, others look creamy and satiny. While each color is stunning and classic when worn individually, it is fun to stripe and stack them to create different designs and layers. I ended up purchasing shades 8 (Iridescent Electric Purple) and 13 (Matte Black).




After trying them several times here is what I found.
The color is extremely vibrant, rich, and beautiful and it lives up to the waterproof claim because it lasts and lasts and lasts. However, because it is waterproof, it has the definitive "wrinkly" and somewhat dry appearance that can be the hallmark of many waterproof products - it tends to cause your skin to not look perfectly smooth once it has dried down. While I'm no spring chicken, I do not have any crepey texture to my eyelids and this product did not do me any favors. In terms of application, the tip is great and overall the liner is VERY easy to apply. However, even after vigorously shaking the product, the color can be a little streaky. While I found that applying it in layers eliminated this problem, I wish it would glide on in one single stroke. I feel that for the cost ($23 each), you can probably find a better place to spend your money unless you are looking for some color variety beyond the usual black, brown, and navy.

Bottom line...
pros: long lasting, great colors, easy to apply
cons: sometimes uneven application, price, finished texture is not necessarily flattering


Good luck and happy makeup!!
xo


Amy Gillespie, makeup artist, fashion, beauty, makeup, product review, makeup forever, aqua liner

Part I - Estee Lauder, where it all began

This is the first part in a series of articles I've been planning to write. Every job I do involves a certain element of small talk as I spend some very close and extended moments with my subject. Inevitably, the conversation turns to our careers and people always ask how I got my start in makeup. Through this series, I plan to go through my makeup career in chronological order highlighting the various companies I've worked for, what sets them apart from other brands, and my favorite products from each line.

Estee Lauder was my very first experience with a high end cosmetics line. I remember browsing a local department store in early 2003 while I was shopping for a fragrance to wear for my wedding. I saw a bottle of perfume at the Estee Lauder counter and felt compelled to test it out. I ended up falling in love! As the lovely lady at the counter wrapped up my purchase, she invited me back to an artistry event they were having. I felt so flattered and excited to have my makeup done by a "real" makeup artist and readily agreed. While I didn't love the way the artist did my makeup, I did make my first major cosmetics purchase. I nearly had a heart attack when my foundation and foundation brush cost me over $60! I never knew cosmetics could cost so much. However, I valued the products and treated them like gold. I still have and use my foundation brush too! (This goes to show that quality brushes, when handled properly, can last for years and years and years.)

Sometime later, I was laid off at my job. I ended up taking a position in men's apparel in the same department store. I hated my job to say the least and would look longingly at the cosmetics department, wishing I could be up with the rest of the girls selling beautiful things. I remember looking at some of the special products that Estee Lauder was offering and I told myself that one day I would work in cosmetics. About a month into my job there, I spoke with the lady who was in charge of the cosmetics division for my region and she told me I had to work for the store for at least a year before I could be promoted to cosmetics. My heart sank and I felt my dreams of makeup and beauty would never be realized. Amazingly enough, the Estee Lauder counter in my store had a sudden opening and a few weeks later, she called me and told me the position was mine if I wanted it. I couldn't believe my good fortune and I jumped at the chance!

As it turns out, I'm really not wired for the business of cosmetics. I didn't like the competition and sales pressure and fighting for commissions. However, I did realize that I loved doing people's makeup and this job was the perfect opportunity to hone in on that skill. I had an endless supply of women of all ages, backgrounds, skintypes, and personalities. It taught me how to properly match a foundation, do corrective makeup, enhance, and go for the drama. I ended up deciding to leave my position at the counter to do freelance work for Estee Lauder and get my esthetics training at the same time. Working as an artist was one of the funnest jobs I had ever had! Through this position, I was able to work with literally thousands of women (sometimes over a hundred in a week) as well as some really amazing national and celebrity artists. My ultimate goal was to be promoted to Estee Lauder's prestigious national artistry team so that was what I set my mind to every time I went to work and spoke with my bosses. I started to see that dream blossom into reality as they began sending me out on national assignments to exotic locales such as Salt Lake, Boise, Seattle, and Portland. Eventually, the economy slowed down and they began to scale back on the national artistry program and I never saw that dream become fully realized. However, it was an honor to have as many cherished national opportunities as I did.

Working with Estee Lauder gave me my first glimpse into a luxury brand. At each training I went to, they impressed upon us the deep history of the brand. Miss Estee Lauder was a trendsetting groundbreaker in every regard. She personally shaped so much of the cosmetics industry as we know it, being the first to offer a gift with purchase and the first to create a product that repaired the skin (serums - now offered by almost every brand under the sun). She even featured a nude model in one of her first ads when the fragrance Youth Dew was released in 1953, scandalous!! The woman never gave up and constantly pushed herself, her business, and her products to new heights. She is famous for having employed the concept of competition in order to capitalize on her success. She took the concept of competition to the extreme by creating Clinique for the sole purpose of competing with herself. Her crazy notion still works to this day as the Estee Lauder Corporation now owns and operates a huge number of top lines including MAC, Bobbi Brown, La Mer, and Aveda to name a few.



The following are my favorite products within the three basic categories of cosmetics: makeup, skincare, and fragrance. All of these items are available at Estee Lauder online or in fine department stores.




Automatic Eyeliner Pencils: I love the soft, blendable consistency of these pencils! They are so easy to use for tightlining, defining, and can be used to create a beautiful smokey eye. The best part is the price and packaging! I recommend buying extra refills for half the price of the full pencil in different shades, removing the smudger tip on the end of the pencil and installing the extra refill in its place, thus having two eyeliners in one pencil. (Eyebrow and lip liner refills are the same size too so you can mix and match it up.) It saves money, space, and time!








Equalizer Foundation: This formula is an oldie but a goodie; I'm always afraid it will be discontinued one of these days. It's technically created for combination skintypes but has hydrating and oil absorbing properties that are activated as needed so anyone can use this product. I love the coverage and natural finish and the fact that it doesn't make my pores more obvious.












Bronze Goddess Soft Matte Bronzer: I like that this bronzer is pink based rather than orange; it is really flattering and doesn't look as muddy as some other bronzers do. It comes in a rather large compact and lasts a very long time.

Elizabeth Pink Pure Color Lipstick: Not only is this one of my favorite shades of baby pinky-peachy lipstick, a portion of the sale proceeds goes directly to Breast Cancer reasearch. The Estee Lauder company spearheaded the pink ribbon campaign back in 1992 and continues to donate millions of dollars each year to fund research and awareness. If lipstick isn't your thing but you still want to support this great cause, there is a collection of products available each year including lipgloss and limited edition powder compacts.










Idealist Duo-Action Refinishing Treatment: This product made the biggest difference in my skin when I first started using it. I have always battled large pores and even blackheads at times through my T-zone and this scrub completely eliminated all of that! It can be an intense product to use (it heats up when activated with water) so I don't recommend it for sensitive skintypes but I guarantee you will see results.











Daywear Sheer Tint Release: This is a really sheer tinted moisturizer that self adjusts its shade to your skintone. As you warm the product up on your skin, you'll start to see the color adjust. I like to use this for quick color and protection.














Re-Nutriv Revitalizing Comfort Creme: I love the texture of this anti-aging creme! It is so soft and moisturizing and your skin will feel like silk after using it. It is a deeply hydrating creme best suited for drier skintypes but combination or oilier types like myself can use it at night time.








Pleasures Intense Eau de Parfum: This fragrance was the first product I purchased from Estee Lauder and is what I wore for my wedding. I don't know that it's my signature fragrance (I'm too fickle to stick to only one fragrance!) but I still love how lush, intense, voluptuous, and romantic it is. The top notes are Green Lily, Le Charme Peony, and Cassis, middle notes are Moroccan Rose, Pink Tiger Lily, and Jasmine, and the base notes are Maple Wood, Benzoin Crystals, and Vanilla.


Bronze Goddess Soleil: While this is somewhat of a remake of a limited edition Tom Ford fragrance and the original was better, this fragrance still captures the amazing scents of summer and sunkissed skin. It literally smells like coconut suntan lotion in the best way possible. Top notes are Sicillian Bergamot and Mandarin, middle notes are Tiare Milk-Tahitian Gardenia Petals, Coconut Oil, Orange Flower Buds, Jasmine, Magnolia Petals, and Myrrh, and the base notes are Amber, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Caramel, and Coconut Cream, yummm!


Here are some of my favorite quotes from Miss Estee Lauder:

“Touch a face. Touch a hand. Say, 'This is for you, this is what I want you to wear.'"
“Look for a sweet person. Forget rich.”
“If there is a message at all, it's probably that we have to recognize in ourselves how we feel morally about certain things and make sure we follow that up with our actions"
"Beauty is an attitude. There's no secret. Why are all brides beautiful? Because on their wedding day they care about how they look. There are no ugly women – only women who don't care or who don't believe they're attractive."

And here are some of my favorite beauty campaigns from years past.
















Amy Gillespie, Portland makeup artist, fashion, beauty, Seattle makeup artist, LA makeup artist, Estee Lauder, cosmetics, makeup recommendations, Oregon makeup artist

How to properly care for your brushes

Brushes are a major and integral makeup investment. Follow these easy steps to protect them long into the future!

I recommend washing your brushes about once a week for solo use. If you are using brushes on multiple people it is essential that they be cleaned after each use. This not only removes product and bacterial build-up but also makes your blending easier resulting in more beautiful makeup on your face. It also extends the life of your brushes. Several of my favorite brushes are 7-10 years old and they are just as good now as they were the day I bought them.

There are two basic ways to clean brushes - with water and shampoo or using a brush cleaner that does not require rinsing - and each comes with its advantages and disadvantages. I prefer to use a combination of the two depending on how dirty my brushes are and what sort of time constraint I am dealing with.

When I use a brush cleaner, I prefer to use the brush cleaner from Cinema Secrets but there are other options that you can spray on your brushes (the method of cleaning is the same for both of these). The advantage of using a brush cleaner is the ease and how quickly it dries. The disadvantage is that some brushes may need to be cleaned several times to get all the product out. Additionally, some brush cleaners have really greasy ingredients in their formulas and it can makeup your brushes feel a little yucky so be sure to research products before you use them.

When using Cinema Secrets brush cleaner, I recommend using the metal tin they provide. Fill it with a half inch of cleaner and start by cleaning the smallest of your brushes to ensure that the product lasts longer. Dip the entire head of the small brushes or just the tips of large brushes into the cleaner and wipe your brushes on a towel until no more makeup is coming off of them and they are relatively dry. If your brushes are dirtier or if it is a nylon brush such as a foundation or concealer brush, you may need to repeat this.

When I clean with a shampoo, I like to use a baby shampoo. This is typically a very gentle product and won't strip the bristles. Make sure to stay away from a product with sulfates as these are very drying. The advantage of cleaning with a shampoo is the squeaky clean factor. My brushes always feel so amazingly soft once they've dried and I love being able to see all the brown liquid rinse away down the drain. The disadvantage is that it can take several hours for your brushes to dry. I like to shampoo my brushes at night time to ensure they will be dry by morning.

I start with a small amount of shampoo in the palm of my hand and wet the brush I am about to clean with some warm (not hot!) water. Then I swirl the brush through the shampoo and massage the shampoo into the bristles to make sure they get really clean. I finish up by rinsing them thoroughly with warm water, repeating if necessary, gently squeezing them to ring out any excess water. Always lay your brushes flat to dry with the tips hanging over the edge of the counter rather than standing them on end. If you want to hydrate your brushes you can always work a little olive or jojoba oil into the bristles.

Good luck and happy makeup! xo



Amy Gillespie, makeup, makeup artist, makeup artistry, Portland Oregon makeup artist, makeup brushes, how to clean brushes, Cinema Secrets

Creative ways to save time and use less makeup

Whenever I work with a personal client or real life woman, I tend to get one of two responses:

“Yeah, this makeup looks great but I’d never be able to do it at home” - or - “I don’t have enough time to spend on my makeup”.

So for those of you who are running on limited time and makeup skills, this piece is for you! I’m going to outline some of my favorite time cutting tricks, multiple use products, and must do steps designed to give you the most impact in your makeup regime.

Let’s start with a variety of multiple use and time saving products. You’ll be surprised at how many options you have with some very basic items already sitting in your bathroom drawer.

Lipstick: Depending on the color, use it on your cheeks and lips. Apply straight from the tube for more color or run your finger over the bullet and tap onto your lips and cheeks for a sheer stained look.

Lipgloss: In addition to using it to lacquer your lips try using it as a dewy highlight on your cheekbones. Squeeze the product onto the back of your hand, rub it with your finger to warm up the product, and pat it onto your cheekbones. Please note, this works best with sheer shades in a satin or pearl finish; I would avoid any formulas with glitter or opaque color.

Lipstick Pencils: These are a great product because they combine the softness of a lipstick with the definition of a pencil. These pencils are chubbier than a traditional lip pencil and are available in a wide range of colors and finishes.

Cream Blush: Again, color depending, try this on your lips, cheeks, and eyes.

Blush and Bronzer: Both of these items can be used as eye shadow and will create a warm, uniform look.

Dilute your concealer: While a lot of women choose to not own a foundation, most will have a concealer. Try mixing your concealer with a bit of your moisturizer if you want to use it for all over coverage.

Cream Eyeshadows: These are typically available either in a tube similar to lipgloss or in a compact. Regardless of packaging, cream shadows can be quickly applied with the fingers. Best of all, they dry down to a beautiful powder finish and have great staying power. As with many of the other products outlined here, these can be a great face highlight depending on the color.

Tinted Moisturizer: This is one of the best inventions of all time! Now you can moisturize, protect, and get sheer coverage all in one step.

Powder Foundation: This product gives you the coverage of a foundation with the finish of a powder all in one step. While powder foundations are ok for all skin types, they don’t always look the best on those with drier skin so take care when shopping for this product and be sure to moisturize first!

This list is not complete without one of my favorite products from NARS cosmetics: the Multiple Stick. This is a cream product that was created for the exact purpose we are discussing here – minimal product with maximum effect in an easy to use medium. The Multiple Sticks can be used on the eyes, cheeks, and lips and are available in a huge variety of colors, transparencies, and finishes. Apply these under or over your foundation or on their own.

Lastly, let’s go over some less thought of options and investments that will pay off in the long run.

Priorities, priorities, priorities: Always start by working on the feature you want to play up the most. This way, if you run out of time, at least your favorite feature is finished. This is especially efficient for the eyes, the feature most women are interested in accentuating. If you do your eyes before anything else, any residual fallout from your products can simply be cleaned up without wasting time on patching and redoing your foundation or concealer.

Primers: While priming may seem like an added step, it eliminates the need for more touch-ups in the day therefore saving you precious time. Foundation primers lock in hydration and keep your makeup looking and feeling fresh all day long. Eyeshadow primers allow your shadow to go on more smoothly with better pigmentation and they won’t crease or fade.

Quality Skincare: Better skin = less makeup. Using preventative measures and taking good care of your skin will make your skin look brighter and more youthful through the years thus eliminating the need to cover and mask many common skin issues. As a side note, if you don’t feel like you have time to wash your face, pick up a cleansing water or cleansing wipes for easy, water-free cleansing.

Practice makes perfect: there is definitely a learning curve when it comes to makeup and it might take time to catch up. Experiment with new products and techniques but do it when you have a little more time to invest in the venture. Master techniques and products while you’re relaxed and soon you’ll be able to incorporate special touches into your daily routine with ease and speed.

Get organized: take some time to go through your makeup collection and throw out anything you haven’t used in ages or that may have become discolored or developed an odor. Get little drawer organizers to keep things in order. I have found great trays at Ikea, Fred Meyer, and Bed Bath & Beyond for very reasonable prices.

Invest in duplicate products: keep an extra set of your powder or concealer or lipstick or blush (or whatever your favorite or most needed product may be) in your purse or at the office. This way you won’t be scrambling to put products in your purse as you leave in the morning. Also, if it’s one of those days where you didn’t finish your makeup to your liking, you can complete things as you sit at a red light or in the bathroom at work.

Good luck and happy makeup!

Amy Gillespie, makeup artist, makeup tricks, makeup tips, makeup secrets

Dior Electric Tropics

Anyone who has spent time with me recently knows that my favorite trend this spring is orange lipstick. Orange is such a fun color to wear - bright, versatile, and just plain fun. I like wearing it as a stain by tapping it into my lips or more boldly by applying it directly from the tube. It really does wonders to brighten the gloomy days we've been experiencing here in the Pacific Northwest.

This brings me to Dior's new collection, Electric Tropics. It has one of the most beautiful shades of orange lipsticks I have seen in quite a while - bright yet soft, full color yet glossy. Anyone can rock this color! There is even a beautiful orange nail color to match. The rest of the collection is full of beautiful neutrals, the perfect compliment to the dazzling lipstick.

Check out the collection here or visit your local Sephora or Nordstrom to play with it in person; you won't be sorry!!


Amy Gillespie, makeup artist, Portland, Oregon, Dior, makeup, makeup trends, new makeup, Pacific Northwest, Seattle, Los Angeles

Why Purple Eyeshadow is so Awesome

Today I am presenting a case for one of my favorite products in the entire world: PURPLE EYESHADOW. Every woman needs at least one shade of purple for the following reasons:

• It is just as versatile as the common shades of brown

• Available in a wide array of tones - neutral, cool, and warm; anyone can wear this color

• It brightens virtually any eye color

• I can't think of another color with as many options - jewel tones, pastels, soft, bold, shimmers, mattes, satins, sheer, opaque - there is something to fit every mood and personality

• It works for every season - try the richer, deeper or jewel toned shades for fall/winter, pastels or brights for spring/summer

• It is a timeless color and the only updating necessary is trying new techniques and ways to wear it from season to season
  

• There are so many amazing color combinations that can be created with purple as the focal point or an accent - pair it with golds, bronzes, coppers, turquoise, yellows, pinks, oranges, silvers, whites, wines, burgundies, greens, etc. The list goes on and on!

• It is an overtly feminine and empowering color symbolizing nobility, riches, sensuality, and sacredness
  

Some of my favorite purple eyeshadows:

• Jolie Poupee and Violetta duos from NARS

• Shade 092 from Makeup Forever

• Palettes 804, 809, and 808 from Dior

• Lavender Ombres Quadrilumieres from YSL

And just for fun, try Everlong mascara in Ever Violet from YSL


Most of all, have fun with it! It's only makeup and it washes off just as easily as it was applied - you only live once!!

Good luck and happy makeup. xo




Amy Gillespie, makeup artist, makeup artistry, eyeshadow, color, Portland, Oregon, advice, tips, tricks, techniques

easy brightened eyes

I can't tell you how often I hear women say they want to play up their eyes with minimal products in a limited amount of time. To some this may sound unachievable but when armed with the proper products and setting aside a little extra time to practice beforehand, you'll be able to quickly pull off these tricks with relative ease in no time at all!

What you'll need:

• dark eyeliner in any form but liquid - gel, cake, powder, or pencil will all do the trick but make sure you have a lining brush for the first three mentioned


• a brightening wand such as Touche Eclat from YSL, SkinFlash from Dior, Skinlights from Revlon, etc.


• mascara


• optional: a shimmering white or cream colored eyeshadow

First, I will go over a technique called tightlining. This is one of the best makeup tricks of all time and will do miracles for your eyes. You'll be wondering how you made it so far in life without it.

Tightlining is a technique that has been used for ages in professional circles for TV and film because it defines the eyes without weighing them down or closing them in. The idea is to line not on the lid nor on the membrane (the wet part under the lashes next to the eye) but rather right in between the two - you are essentially lining on the roots of the lashes. I tell clients all the time that you'll know you're in the right place because your lashes will move around a lot while you do the application; if your lashes are stationary you're doing it wrong. For an even brighter look, try doing this with a dark cobalt blue shadow. Much like how a red lipstick with a blue toned base makes your teeth look whiter, a cobalt will brighten the whites of your eyes. My favorite is China Blue by NARS.

Here is a shot from a shoot I worked on. The model does have eyeshadow on as well, but you can see where I tightlined her upper lashes. In her case, I used Aqua Creamliner from Makeup Forever. (photo - Lavenda Memory)

How to do it:

• You'll want to close your eyes and relax them. You can not do this trick with your eyes scrunched closed.


• Gently pull up on your eyelid. This not only exposes and opens the lash line where you want to apply your products but also tightens the skin making it easier to deposit your color.


• If using a pencil, make sure it is nice and sharp. Starting at the outer corner, draw on your eyelashes in feathering strokes, back and forth like you're sketching. Don't try to draw a single, continuous line; use short strokes and allow a line to naturally build. Work from the outer corner towards the inner eye and gradually use less pressure to ensure that the line tapers away softly.


• If using a brush, you can apply a cake, gel, or even powder. When working with powder, simply spritz your brush with a little water, wipe off any excess moisture, and dip into the powder, tapping off the excess if necessary.


• As before, close your eyes and relax them. Gently pull up on the eyelid. Place the brush on the outer corner at the lash line and wiggle it horizontally to place the product - please note, as you wiggle the brush, it should be stationary; you are not moving or blending, you are firmly setting the liner in place. Lift up, move in closer towards the center and repeat. Do this all the way across until you get to the inner eye. Unlike the pencil, you won't have to vary the pressure because you'll be depositing less and less product as you move across your eye.

Open your eyes and compare the lined eye to the other. You will not look like you are wearing eyeliner but you will notice that the lined eye looks brighter and more defined and your lashes look thicker and darker.

To finish off your eyes, take your brightening wand and apply a stripe on the brow bone following the shape of your eyebrow. Concentrate the most product at the arch of your eyebrow. Don't wipe to blend it; I like to take my finger and tap it out until it disappears into the skin. You may also use your brightening wand under the eyes to brighten any dark circles or on the lid to even out any skintone issues such as visible veins or discolored skin.

Give yourself a few coats of mascara and you are done! As another option, you may add in a shimmering white or creamy colored shadow appropriate for your skintone (even a peachy or pinky shade can be nice). With a small brush (or even your finger!), place a dot of shadow on the inner corner of your eye and tear duct area as well as a dot under the arch of the brow. This will add a soft touch that will reflect and glow when caught in the light.

There you have it - Fast, defined, and brightened! Good luck and happy makeup!!

Amy Gillespie, makeup artist, makeup tricks, makeup tips, eyeshadow, beauty, Portland, Oregon